Prepping For Shingle Installation
There are several things you need to do before you bust out your ladder and start haphazardly nailing shingles to your roof. A little bit of prep work goes a long way to make the job easier and ensures you wont have to take more than one trip to your local hardware store. Well cover tools and equipment later, but first, well discuss some things you can do before you make a single purchase.
Besides acquiring the right tools and materials, you should also pay attention to the weather forecast and choose a clear day. Attempting to install shingles in wet weather is asking for trouble, so dont be afraid to delay the project by a week if theres any possibility of rain.
On a similar note, try to do any roof work during the temperate months. Being up on your roof exposed to the blistering summer sun or biting winter winds is equally undesirable. Most people wind up installing shingles in the spring as the weather warms up, but autumn is just as viable, as long as you do it before your roof is covered with leaves.
Installing shingles is a noisy business, so it is probably a good idea to warn your neighbors ahead of time as a courtesy. Its also a good idea to avoid starting work too early since every step of the process makes a racket. If you have any pets that are sensitive to loud noises, consider having them spend installation day away from the house if possible.
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Ice Dam Protection At The Eaves
If you live in an area where the climate includes significant cold winter weather, youd wear boots to protect your feet from ice, slush and puddles, right? Well, your roof and the home under it need the same kind of protection that an ice and water protector is engineered to provide. This thin, self-adhering membrane is the next component and it gets installed over the drip edge. Ice dam formation is best prevented by having a proper attic vapor barrier, adequate attic insulation and thorough ventilation however, an ice protection membrane is a wise roofing system component and is likely required by your local building code in cold climates. This ice and water membrane is typically applied to overhang the eaves by 1/4-3/4. To be fully effective, it should extend up the roof to a point at least 24 inside the vertical extension of the interior side of the wall. At this time, any valleys on the roof should also be flashed with an ice and water membrane. Why an ice and water protector? Because these membranes work on the principle that their rubberized asphalt coating seals around the shanks of the overlying shingle fasteners, adding an extra degree of water-shedding protection.
Ice dams form when melted snow runs down the roof to the eaves and freezes again, which forces water back up underneath the shingles.StormShield Ice and water protector.
Why Add New Roof Shingles Over Top Of Old Ones
It might seem like an obvious benefit to having multiple layers of protection on your roof, but that is not automatically true. As a matter of fact, having multiple layers of shingles does not mean that your roof is any more waterproof than it may have been before.
Also, having multiple roofing layers can create problems all its own. The biggest reason to lay down new shingles over existing ones comes down to a simple matter of convenience and cost. Keeping the old shingles allows you to skip the messy labor and disposal costs of a tear-off.
It is important to note that both of these have caveats. It isnt as simple as putting the new roof over the top of the old special prep work needs to be done to complete the new installation. Things like removing ridge caps, vents, and misshapen angles are just the tip of the iceberg.
In addition, you might still have to replace or add new flashing. This can sometimes be tricky to do over old roofing. And the fact is that while you might be saving tear-off costs, you really are just delaying the cost. When you have to start over with a new roof, youll just have to tear it off and start over.
Putting new roofing over the existing structure is a pay me now or pay me later scenario. You will save on costs in the short term, but you will eventually need to pay for the full cost of a new roof at some point.
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Install The Eaves Protection Membrane And Cover The Valleys
- 2.1 – Install self-adhesive waterproof membrane 36-72″ wide on all fascia boards.
- 2.2 – Unroll and align the membrane so that it overlaps the metal drip edge by 3/8″.
- 2.3 – Temporarily attach the roof membrane at a few equidistant locations.
- 2.4 – Fold back the lower half and peel off the release film.
- 2.5 – Reposition and press down to ensure good adherence.
- 2.6 – Remove the temporary installations and fold back the upper half of the membrane.
- 2.7 – Peel off the release film, reposition and press down to ensure good adherence.
- 2.8 – Repeat to cover the eaves and fascia.
- 2.9 – Lap the end joins by 6″ and the lateral joins by 3″.
- 2.10 – Install roof vents and other roof elements on the decking.
- 2.11 – Cover valleys with self-adhesive waterproof membrane. Begin at the lower section of the roof. Center a 36″ strip so that half of the strip covers each side. Overlap each section of the membrane by 6-12″.
- 2.12 – Lay the self-adhesive membrane to extend 4″ up the sides of the chimney and to form a 12″ strip on the roof around the chimney.
- 2.13 – Cover ridges and crests so that half a strip covers each side.
Be Sure To Install A Drip Edge
Dont make the mistake of not installing a drip edge. Drip edges are essential for avoiding water damage to your roof. If any water starts to drip down and off your roof, the drip edge will kick the water out and keep it away from your home and siding. Without a drip edge, the water will drip down and under the roof and towards your home, leading to severe water damage. Dont try and save a few bucks by not using a drip edge on your new roof.
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How Do I Lay Asphalt Shingles On A Roof And What Should Be Under Them
How do I lay asphalt shingles on a roof, and what should be under them? Are they self-adhesive? Can I stick them directly onto plywood?
- Rod Fitzsimmons FreyJul 22, 2010 at 20:01
- @Rod, in my case a shed, but I’m sure the answer for a house or garage would be useful for somebody else.
My other answer only answered “what should I put under the shingles”. I reread the question and see that @Vebjorn asked how to install shingles. Doing a shed is a good project if you haven’t shingled before. Doing a house is harder because of the peaks and valleys.
To shingle your shed, assuming a straight gable roof:
A. Roofing felt.
C. The peak
Install Your Roof Shingles
Now that you’ve conquered the underlayment and drip edge and plotted your course, it’s time to learn how to install roof shingles.
- Work your way up and across to begin laying your courses. Be mindful of the proper nailing technique so that nails always hold the top edge of the course beneath it. For example: Hammer one nail about 2 inches from each end of a shingle. Then secure another nail an inch above each cutout. So, your next course of shingles should cover the nails by 1 inch vertically.
- As you continue, follow the pattern of lining a full shingle up against the next and then nailing it into place. Follow the guideline specified by the manufacturer as each shingle style has its own cut pattern.
- Cut your last shingle on each row to size, repeating all the way to the ridge. Once you’ve reached the ridge, bend the shingle over the ridge so that each side is equal and nail it into place with a single nail on each side.
- Do the same with the next shingle, continuing this step until you get to the far edge of the ridge.
- Cut the last ridge shingle to the length you need, but be sure that no part of the roof is exposed.
Tip: Be careful to drive nails straight rather than angled. Each shingle should be held by four nails. Six nails are preferred for areas that experience wind.
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Attach And Align Shingles
To attach a 3-tab shingle, align it with the layout line and drive nails Â½ inch above the cutout slots . Drive a nail at one end first, then drive the others. If you are using a power nailer, drive nails by squeezing the trigger and bouncing the nailer’s tip onto the shingle.
Better Homes & Gardens
Install A Metal Ridge Vent
- 11.1 – Snap a chalk line 7/8″ from the ridge on both sides of the roof. If roof trusses are evident, the gap should be 1 ¾” the length of the ridge. Leave 8-10″ along a wall or chimney.
- 11.2 – Measure the thickness of the sheathing and adjust the circular saw to that measurement.
- 11.3 – Cut the sheathing and be sure not to cut down to the rafters. Follow the two chalk lines along the ridge.
- 11.4 – Use a wood chisel to complete the cut at the ends
- 11.5 – Remove the sheathing panel with a pry bar. Remove all nails along the cut.
- 11.6 – Install the shingles up to the ridge so that they cover the sealed strip on both sides of the ridge.
- 11.7 – Cut the shingles covering the vent opening.
- 11.8 – Center the vent on the ridge.
- 11.9 – Nail at the top of the opening every 6″, alternating from side to side.
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Lay Out The Starter Shingles
- 5.1 – Start in the lower left corner and work towards the valley. Read the manufacturer’s instructions specific to the type of shingle.
- 5.2 – Snap a horizontal chalk line 5-10″ from the lower edge of the roof. Adjust the measurement according to the type of shingle.
- 5.3 – Snap a vertical chalk line every 6 and horizontal lines at regular intervals to ensure the rows of shingles will be straight.
- 5.4 – Use a starter strip or cut the tabs off the shingles to be used.
- 5.5 – Cut 3-5″ from the left side of the shingle to stagger joins.
- 5.6 – Install the starter shingle with the adhesive strip on the edge of the roof. Overlap the fascia boards by approximately 3/8″.
- 5.7 – Align with the chalk line. If necessary, move and snap another line according to the width of the starter strip
- 5.8 – Secure the starter strip with 4 nails equally spaced. Do not nail closer than 6″ from the fascia board, 1″ from the lateral edges, and ½” above each notch. Do not nail into the self-adhesive strip. Nails must be perfectly straight and flush with the surface of the shingles.
- 5.9 – Install starter rows the entire length of the eaves.
- 5.10 – When you come to a valley, place the starter strip on top of the flashing and cut along the chalk line.
- 5.11 – Nail 2″ from the chalk line.
- 5.12 – Make a 2″ bevel cut in the upper corner of the strip and coat the valley side with asphalt sealant.
Use Proper Nailing Technique
At a minimum, asphalt shingles can be attached with just four nails for each shingle, but if installing in an area prone to high winds, six nails should be used for each shingle. Asphalt shingles have a nailing linea line of sealant material intended to bond with the next row of shingles. Your nails should be placed just below this line, not inside it or above it. To reduce the wind lift forces acting over the shingles, do not nail them too high or too low. Never nail through the sealant strip of the shingle as it might affect the water flow over the roof.
Make sure nails are driven straight, not angled so that the sharp edges of the nail heads can cut into the asphalt shingles. Make sure that all fasteners penetrate at least 3 4 inch into the wood deck or completely through the sheathing.
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Calculate How Many Shingles You Need
Before you learn how to install roof shingles and actually begin the installation process, you have to know how many you need. If you dont already have measurements that you can usesuch as paperwork from prior roofing workyou need to measure your roof:
The simplest way to get the area of your roof is to climb up with your tape measure, getting help from a friend or family member. This may be a job best left to a professional roofer if you have any safety concerns about being on a roof.
Measure the length and the width of each section of your roof and multiply the two dimensions together. This gives you the roofs surface area of that individual section of roofing. Add all the roofs areas together to find out exactly how much roof surface space there is overall. Do this in feet and then divide the total that you come up with by 100 to get your figure from square feet to what is known as squares. For instance, a 10 square roof is actually 1,000 square feet overall.
How To Install Roof Shingles On Your Shed
This article was co-authored by David Bitan and by wikiHow staff writer, Hannah Madden. David Bitan is a roofing professional, licensed contractor, and the owner and founder of Bumble Roofing based in Southern California. With over 12 years of construction industry experience, David specializes in restoring, repairing, and maintaining residential, commercial, and industrial roofs. With over 60 years of combined experience, Bumble Roofing provides easy, friendly services to structures including residential, commercial, industrial, multi-family, and government buildings along with hospitals, hotels, and churches.There are 9 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 1,439 times.
Whether youre building a new shed or re-roofing another one, shingling is an important step that you cant skip. Shingles provide an important, water-proofing layer that can extend the life of your structure for years to come.XExpert SourceDavid BitanRoofing Contractor & Maintenance ProfessionalExpert Interview. 14 July 2020. Laying shingles on a roof by yourself isnt tough, but it may take a few hours of hard work. Keep reading to learn the process of shingling a shed roof so you can get started right away.
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Proper Nailing Techniques For Optimal Performance Of Asphalt Shingles
Roofing shingles have specific guidelines for how they should be fastened to your roof. They relate primarily to the quantity, location, and driving method of the roofing nails.
Proper installation is essential for optimum shingle performance and for compliance with the International Building Code. Learn where and how to nail shingles to ensure performance and holding power.
Pro Tip: Visit our Document Library for roofing product documents, such as data sheets, install instructions, technical bulletins, and more.
Heres How To Install Roof Shingles
1- Determine your roof style
Before beginning this project, it is important to figure out what style of roof your home has and then you can install shingles accordingly. There are two main roof styles, and they are hip and gable.
Hip: A hip roof slopes on all four sides and all the sides are of equal length. These come together to form a ridge at the top. Hip roofs are more stable than their gable counterpart, as they possess an inward slope that works to keep the structure sturdy as well as durable. This style roof works well with high wind and snowy areas, as the slant of the roof forces snow to slide off without leading to standing water.
Although this type of roof is more sturdy, hip roofs are more expensive to install than gable roofs. Some different types of hip roofs include simple hip, cross hipped, half-hipped and so on.
Gable: A gable roof is also often referred to as a pitched or peaked roof, and is one of the most popular roof styles in North America. This roof is easily identifiable by their triangular shape. This style roof provides plenty of space to create an attic or storage area as well as more ventilation.
Gable roofs are cheaper than the aforementioned hip roof, as well as easier to build. However, gable roofs may have issues holding up against intense weather conditions, including strong winds. Some different types of gable roofs include: side gable, crossed gable, front gable as well as Dutch gable.
2- Correctly choose and size your shingles
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